Almost all the diving here is from the shore. You walk in off the beach or the rocks. That means no boat schedules, no early starts, and a very low barrier between deciding to get in the water and being in it.
The Blue Hole, a few kilometres north, is a famous submarine sinkhole — spectacular for snorkellers around its rim and, for divers, a site that demands respect and honesty about your limits. The Canyon, Eel Garden and the Islands are all excellent shore dives.
The town itself is the other draw. Waterfront cafés with cushions on the floor, mountains behind, and a mixed community of Bedouin families, dive instructors and long-stay visitors. People come for three days and leave after three weeks.
It is also the best base for Mount Sinai and Saint Catherine's, and for the Coloured Canyon and Ras Abu Galum.